Holiday Dinners with Bradley Ogden

January 9, 2012
Chef Ogden (Bradley Odgen's Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner) collects over 150 recipes for Thanksgiving, Christmas and, to a lesser extent, New Year's in this attractive collection that offers diminishing returns as readers work their way through the book. Ogden starts strong with Thanksgiving recipes including Twice-Baked Blue Cheese Soufflés with Citrus-Fennel Salad, a Wood-Grilled Turkey Chop with Wild Mushroom Gravy, and a Sweet Potato Gratin. That momentum carries him through Christmas with Caviar Potato Puffs, Black Mustard Beef Tenderloin with Red Wine Sauce, a Chocolate Brioche Pudding, and others. But he hits a wall when it's time for New Year's. An inordinately complicated take on hummus and a lazy acknowledgement of brunch do little to raise spirits for the holiday, though a few dishes do deliver, like Fennel-Cured Gravlax and a Bean Stew with Smoked Ham Hock and Kale. The suggested menus are a nice touch, but other sections do little more than baffle. A puzzling Thanksgiving preparation schedule that isn't paired with any of the menus, text rather than photos for carving a turkey, four vague paragraphs on choosing the right wine, and New Year's Day hangover remedies feel hastily and misguidedly tacked-on. Fans of Ogden and foodies with time on their hands will likely find a few new favorites here, but those new to cooking or pressed for time may find better advice elsewhere. Photos.

September 15, 2011

In his introduction, Ogden (Bradley Ogden's Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner) addresses why he has added to the abundance of holiday-themed cookbooks. His reasoning is sound in that he clearly expresses an appreciation for "farm fresh" produce and offers up sophisticated recipes for the adventurous home cook. Broken up into sections on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's, the recipes take center stage and are followed by suggested menus and preparation schedules. The especially helpful "Special Note" sections offer tips on identifying fruits and vegetables, and one even tackles hangover remedies. The book is finished off with a coda on warm-weather holiday meals. Home cooks looking to take their dinners and parties to the next level will appreciate this collection.

Copyright 2011 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.